*
I got the wood siding made and installed on the long sides for the gate car. I did both sides. They still require all the trimming and framing for diving up the plastic into windows. I think I should get started on the little short sides... The wood siding is scale lumber basswood 2x4's - I thought about making the siding out of 2x2's but decided that was not the right answer. The pictures look like 2x4's. I painted the 2x4's like I did for the RhB boxcar [Güterwagen] - taped them down and painted them. Then sanded them. I used the traction red paint that I had mixed with the Holbein acryla-gouache paint. The paint had come a little unmixed, and despite my remixing it, there is a little red shade variation through the siding pieces.
I chopped the 2x4's up into pieces about 50mm long, then taped them down neatly to Bristol board. This allows me to get them spaced as I want and maintain control of the wood pieces. Then I cut them in half and glued each half to one long side. After the glue dried, I trimmed the pieces to the correct length. thus getting a perfect fit.
Since the sides were too thick, I removed two layers of the Bristol board from the inside along the bottom of the sides. This made them the correct thickness and makes them fit nicely to the undercarriage piece.
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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bristol board
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paint
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wood
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Most of the seats (Studio Pickett (Soph)) by gmpicket
I finished making the long bench seats for the gate car. There are more seats, however. Little short bench-type with higher backs that go in the center. For the backs and support parts of the seats, I made a green-gray color using Holbein Naples Yellow, ultramarine deep, and neutral gray #4. For the cushions part of the seats, I used mixed a dirty yellow using Holbein Naples yellow and burnt umber. I ran out of Naples yellow - no day is complete without running out of paint. The seats need to be sanded and given a second coat of paint.
I also painted the floor where it will be inside the car. I mixed a purple using Holbein burnt umber, crimson, ultramarine deep, and titanium white.
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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paint
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seats
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I made the wheel hubs for the gate car. They are made out of pieces of basswood. I probably should have painted them during construction and before I got the wheels involved. Oh well. I painted them since I took the photo. They turned out good enough. I painted them Holbein jet black to match the undercarriage.
I had wanted wheel sets with 1.5mm diameter axles, but the wheels I received have about 2.+ mm diameter axles. I had bought some styrene plastic half-round tubes that had an inside diameter just bigger than 1.5mm. I was going to embed the wheel axles into these - that way the wheels would turn nicely and I wouldn't have to find wheels that allowed me to remove the wheels from the axle like I do with the wheels for the RhB cars. Since the gate car is standard gauge HO, which is common in the US. I guess I could hunt around and get larger diameter styrene half-round tubes, but then I'd have to wait longer to make the wheel hubs. I really want to get moving on this car. So the wheel axles are embedded in square hubs made entirely of basswood. Needless to say, the wheels don't turn very well. This model is expected to just sit around on a shelf for show, so it doesn't matter much.
And, in case anybody cares, today is my blog's first birthday. I've been writing this blog for one year now. Whheee!!!!
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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hubs
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paint
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wheels
*
I painted the beginnings of the undercarriage Holbein jet black. I'm wondering if I should use the anthracite color by Studio Lascaux. The jet black seems too flat and too black. And every speck of dust glows like bright stars on a clear moonless night.
I put the couplers on. I used Kadee #35. These are quite different from the couplers that I have been using for the RhB cars. At first they looked complicated, but they turned out to be much easier to assemble. I picked these couplers because they could be made to fit under the carriage and only stick out a little bit. These cars don't have a big gap between them like the RhB cars do. I also picked these couplers because they are short. I need to get the wheels somewhat close to the ends of the car. I snitched two screws from the other couplers, though. The screws that came with these couplers are too long. I added a thin wood shim and this made the other screws a perfect length. These screws are skinnier than the screws that came with these couplers, so there was some slop room to make micro-adjustments to how far out the couplers stick from under the carriage.
You will also notice that the wheels arrived today - yay!!!!! I was getting worried about them. They are a "weathered brass" finish, and look the right color to me so they will not need to be painted. They are also weighty, which is always good. I haven't decided what to do about adding weight to this car - I'm contemplating sneaking some hidden coins into the underside somehow.
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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couplers
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paint
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wheels
*
I while back, I mixed the "traction red" that my informant told me was the best color. I decided to base my color on a photo of the gate car outside in the sun in it's current color. I mixed Holbein crimson, burnt umber, and titanium white together. Compared to some colors that I mix, this one is simple and easy!
I mixed quite a bit of this paint, and stored it in the little vial in the photo - the lighting is awful because it looks like blood. It is really much redder looking. Maybe it's because of Halloween being so near!
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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paint
*
I thought this was going to be simple. But it is not. I've received information from the webmaster at the Shore Line Transit Museum in Connecticut - they have a BU gate care, number 1227 - and the webmaster says that the current colors on car 1273 at the NYC Transit Museum is basically historically correct. So, I'm back to thinking that I will paint my car to match that car - the dark maroon color. From what I gather, the BU 1200 series gate cars went through quite a few appearance transformations during their lives. I guess it should be a simple matter to decide that I am modeling them as they originally appeared in 1904. I want to sleep on it, as they say, before making a final decision.
Meanwhile, I'm out of burnt umber paint and won't be getting more until Monday. Thus, I have two more nights to sleep on it.
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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paint
*
I also spent some time this evening mixing colors for the interior of the gate car. I don't plan to model the interior in detail, but I would like to give some basic details and colors. I spent some time browsing through the photos posted of
BMT Gate El Cars and downloaded some photos to help me out. The webmaster of that site was also helpful and informed me that the exterior of the gate cars was "brown" back in the old days. There were only two color photos of exteriors, and they both appear to be faded or something - they look a little off color-wise. But they hint at a brown exterior. Using the same colors that I had used to mix my earlier maroon for the exterior, I made a brown that looks similar to the historic photo, and that I like.
For the interior colors, I am using a photo of a gate car that is owned by the
Shore Line Transit Museum. I mixed a peach/pink color for the ceiling using Holbein acryla-gouache colors titanium white and burnt sienna. For the seats, I mixed Holbein colors titanium white, Naples yellow, and burnt umber. For the painted woodwork, I mixed Holbein colors Naples yellow, ultramarine deep, and neutral gray #4. And I decided to use the earlier color that I mixed for the exterior, for the floor.
The seats will be shaped out of balsa wood, and will help structurally to hold the model together. Sneaky, eh?
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1273 - brooklyn union 'gate car'
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paint
*
I'm still procrastinating on the boxcar's brakes, so I started on the wheel journals. Interestingly, it was the brakes and wheel journals where I bogged down on the previous car. Here you can see, I'm repeating the process that I ended up using for the cement silo car's journals. I printed the drawing I made in AutoCAD onto Bristol board, and I printed it twice. I have cut the centers out of one print. And I have done the preliminary painting on both. The black is Holbein acryla-gouache jet black paint, and the gray is the same under-carriage paint. By painting these pieces now, I can avoid masking them to paint later. I try to paint everything in advance because it ends up being easier and neater.
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boxcar
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bristol board
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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journals
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paint
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The next car is going to be a model of an old Brooklyn Union train car. I visited the NYC Transit Museum in Brooklyn today and took photos of the actual car in its current condition. The car has had a number of modifications over the 100+ years of it's life. I plan to model it as it appeared in the past more so than today. The main difference today is that the roof is lowered. It also has modern wheels and journals. I have two old pictures that I will base my historic appearance on. I also have a scale drawing of the car giving the original dimensions. Since the old pictures are in black and white, I will use the current color as the color for the model. The car appears to be a very dark color in the old photos.
I played around and mixed up a test color. The photo shows two photos that I took today of the museum car. You can see my test color piece on the right hand side of the photo. I think I need to make my color just a smidge lighter. It is Holbein acryla-gouache colors burnt umber, crimson, ultramarine deep, and titanium white.
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1273
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brooklyn union
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paint
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I adjusted the size of the brakes a little. The were 8mm long last time, and I made the 6mm long this time. I think I should have made the 7mm long. I will add a little piece to the top to lower the placement of the brakes on the wheels. This actually might be better - it should get the long sides at a 45 degree angle better. I also made the wooden parts of the brakes out of 4x8's scale lumber instead of 8x8's. This way the brakes can fit the the wheel without hitting the flange. This should result in the brakes looking better - instead of them looking like they are way off the wheel.
You can in the photo, the brake on the left is ready to be painted. The others still need to be glued together. The long skinny pieces are Bristol board, same as always, painted to match the under-carriage. The half-moon shaped pieces are basswood scale lumber, cut into triangles, then shaped with jewelers files to get the half-moon shape.
Posted in:
boxcar
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brakes
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bristol board
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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paint
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wood
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The front railing and the front steps are on. I made the outer part of the railing out of brass, painted to match the under-carriage. The front steps have brass supports, and the actual steps are basswood - the same as the deck. They are also painted the same color as the decking - the under-carriage gray mixed with water - I think they came out too light colored, though. I may do another coat on them to darken them up. I drilled the holes that the brass supports are set into, at a slight angle. From looking at the pictures of real boxcar steps, the supports are angled slightly.
I used the contact cement to glue the front steps and the railing together. It dries a little shiny, but except for where the front railing meets the deck, the glue is painted over. I probably should have used the Liquitex matte medium there. Oh well. The contact cement remains slightly flexible when dry, so it works very well with the metal. I have found that the matte medium and the wood carpenter's glue dry to be more drittle and thus the joints can snap if bumped.
Next are the brakes and the wheel journals, then I will begin the final assembly of the car. I feel like this car is coming together very quickly. Maybe it's just me - it has been almost five weeks since I started it. This car will also complete the five cars that I had planned to do this year. I made five cars last year, so I figured I would make five cars this year. So, I am going to do a bonus car next - something different for those readers who are bored with cute little freight cars - the next car will be a model of an old Brooklyn Union passenger car from 1904. I've been invited to make a model that has something to do with Brooklyn for a gallery exhibit at the end of this year. I've thought about modeling old subway train cars before, and this is the perfect excuse. After that, I will resume making RhB train cars - passenger cars!
Posted in:
boxcar
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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glue
,
güterwagen
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metal
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paint
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railing
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steps
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Sides are ready (Studio Pickett (Soph)) by gmpicket
src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1066/1439895033_7117dedc5d_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="P9250033" />
After cutting out the information plaques, I made sure that they fit properly, then painted the edges with the paint that I've been using on the undercarriage. That paint is a little darker, but I think that is ok. The plaque is supposed to have just the tiniest overhang on the top, which I didn't make. I've tried in the past but it always comes out too big and looks clumsy. I have found that anything too big really ruins the realism. I thought about making it out of regular thin paper, but I think the paper would buckle and never make a straight edge. So I opted for painting the edges slightly darker, thinking that darkness may just read as overhang. I'm not sure it really worked though. Maybe I should have been sloppier painting the edges.
For the little white piece in the lower right-hand corner of the plaque, I added the destination information piece. On the previous boxcars, this was made out of Bristol board, but I decided that was too clumsy. This time I made it out of very thin brass. I used a piece of brass that I apparently cut off of a .005" thick sheet, but I don't remember. I've had this strip of brass sitting on my desk for a long time, and find it hard to believe that I cut that strip. It is the perfect width and I had thought about doing this on a previous car, but had not done so. *sigh* I painted the piece with Holbein neutral gray #1, then used the dry brush technique to add a little dirt around the edges. The dirt is a little of the undercarriage purple-gray mixed into the neutral gray #1.
I glued the info plaque down with wood carpenter's glue, and the destination pieces with the contact cement.
Posted in:
boxcar
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gb 5091 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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metal
,
paint
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plaque
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The window and door hardware is now installed. I used brass rod for the hardware, except for the door latch, which is a flat brass piece. I painted hardware that is on the red/pink background with the same red/pink paint, the dry-brush painted dirt onto it. The dirt is Holbein acryla-gouache jet black mixed into the red/pink paint. For the hardware on the door, I painted them a light gray (Holbein acryla-gouache titanium white mixed with neutral gray #4), the dry-brush added a little of the base yellow paint.
All the hardware is glued with the Liquitex matte medium. The door latches are glued directly to the door. But the other hardware is held in place by drilling little holes and inserting the brass rods into the holes. I added glue just to make sure the hardware stays in place. I find it easiest to fit the brass rods if I drill the top hole, the shape and cut the piece out of the brass rod, then use the piece to measure where to drill the bottom hole. All holes are drilled with a hand-held pin vise.
Posted in:
boxcar
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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glue
,
güterwagen
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metal
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paint
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After careful measuring, I glued the vertical pieces down on the long sides. I also glued down the doors. And have decided to put off doing the dirt wash with watered-down black paint. I already did a wash of black paint - but it was so watered-down it didn't read - despite that I keep having visions of all the siding boards popping loose if I do another wash, so I am postponing it indefinately. The vertical pieces are basswood painted to match the siding. I glued them down with wood carpenter's glue.
You can tell from the picture that the long sides are warping just like they did on the previous boxcar. Oh well. It turned out ok last time, so hopefully, it will turn out ok this time, too. *sigh* Meanwhile, onward with more siding detail pieces.
Posted in:
boxcar
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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paint
,
wood
*
I'm still working on painting the doors. I've been playing around with how light or dark the base yellow should be, and fiddling with how to best apply the paint. I played around with adding the dirt by adding lots of water an smearing it around, then wiping it off - which makes an interesting effect - but it wasn't quite what I wanted. Finally, I tried smearing a second coat (the dirt) over the base coat again using the painting knife, but that resulted in the metal of the painting knife making gray/silver marks on the paint. So, I decided to try plastic for the second coat. You can buy plastic paint knives, but I don't have one handy and didn't feel like going all the way into the City to buy one - so I dug around in my closet and found some old credit cards (ok, I'm too lazy to cut them up when they expire) - and a couple of them worked perfectly!
I like the overall effect. The paint blended and I was able to control the thickness of the coat. I added a little water to the dirt layer to make the paint flow easier. I plan to add some gray dirt - mix in a little water and stipple on like I did the rust flecks on the cement silo. There will also be dirt in the form of smeared chalk on the rivets once they are on. So doors will be a little "dirtier" than they are now.
I re-used the stamp from the previous boxcar. It doesn't stamp perfectly clear, but that is probably ok, and due to its tiny size, probably not going to get better with having a new stamp made. I used the Color Box black stamp ink that I used for the cement silo car. I have various shades of brown stamps ink, but none of them stamp very dark. And I need make a new door cutting guide because the doors need to a millimeter different size than the previous boxcar doors.
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boxcar
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dirt
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doors
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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paint
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Here you can see the beginning of the doors and windows for the boxcar [Güterwagen]. I did this the same way as the previous boxcar, I mixed up the basic paint color and then used a paint knife to smear it onto Bristol board. This time I tried to get a thinner coat since last time I got a thick coat and the paint bubbled and cracked. I used the Holbein acryla-gouache, same as last time, but this time I mixed the colors Naples yellow and titanium white. My efforts to get a thinner coat have paid off - there is no bubbling nor cracking. The color came out quite even toned. It is a little lighter tone at the edges where it is a really thin coat, but that can be not used. Though, the variation in tone is interesting. I may try to add a little dirt that is lighter in tone in addition to the slightly darker dirt.
I made three pieces so that I can play with one - try a few new dirt and paint tricks - and then paint the two other pieces for use. I want to have enough so that I can make extra doors and windows in case something goes wrong, I'll have a spare.
Posted in:
boxcar
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doors
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gb 5079 - boxcar
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güterwagen
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paint
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windows
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I glued down the replacement siding pieces. So the sides are not exactly the same. Maybe somebody would notice, maybe not. In one sense, I think it's terrible - but then I think, the two short ends really do have some 2x6 boards, so I don't think anybody will look at the sides and point out the 2x6's there as being outstandingly odd. If nothing else, it makes a perfect "mistake". People tell me I should have a mistake in my work, so this boxcar does.
I also painted on some dirt - watered-down black paint - but I think I got it too thin. I also added a watered-down layer of the pink with some more of the Naples yellow color mixed in. It should have made the pink look orange, but it just sort of added a dusty layer of faintly yellow dirt. I think I should use a more powerful yellow in the future. I will add another layer of watered-down black once I get the vertical pieces on - but make it read a little better.
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boxcar
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dirt
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
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paint
*
I finished cutting and gluing the Bristol board supports for the siding. I also painted the remaining siding pieces - the odd-colored 2x4's, the 2x6's for the ends, and the 2x24's for the curved parts. I made all four side supports two-layered. The two layers have the paper grain oriented vertically for one layer and oriented horizontally for the other layer. I painted them with Holbein acryla-gouache paint color jet black. As you can see, it has dried to nice flat black finish. So, I am ready to cut, fit, and glue on the siding.
You can see from the picture how I laid out the siding supports on the drawings. I made the supports a little short on widths because the addition of the siding will add some thickness, and I don't want to add that much to the size of the car. I plan to cut the siding so that it runs a little past the ends. Hopefully, this will help with the corners while reducing the proportion problems that have plagued previous boxcars that I have made. We will see if this works.
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boxcar
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bristol board
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
,
paint
*
I added the flanges along the underside of the under-carriage - you can see the edge of it sticking out in the photo. There is one on the other side, too. I made them using Bristol board that I painted. I find that if I paint both sides at one time, the Bristol board doesn't warp nor curl. For things like this, I use extra precaution and smush them under a pile of heavy books overnight.
I also added the decking. I need the decking on now because I am making the Bristol board supports for the boxcar's sides - and these supports need to be carefully fitted to the size of the under-carriage. Since the decking is supposed to stick out a little at the sides, I need it on now. The decking is made from scale lumber 2x8's, painted with the same purple-ish-gray that I used on the under-carriage. I watered it down considerably, since I wanted a translucent coat. I also did a coat of watered-down Holbein acryla-gouache jet black. I did this to make the boards look old and dirty.
So the under-carriage is ready to have the wheels attached. They are ready and waiting. I will probably glue them on after I finish fitting the side pieces. I did a test measurement, and I think the coupler height change will be perfect. The end result should be the journals being shorter and thus correctly proportioned.
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boxcar
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bristol board
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
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paint
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Step 1: Find a large piece of Bristol board and tape it to your workspace.
Step 2: Tape down a piece of wax paper that is just short of the 2x4's in width/length.
Step 3: Tape down the 2x4's.
Step 4: Paint the 2x4's liberally - you want to make sure you get a good coat of paint on them and not miss any places. You also want to make sure you paint the edges. Let the paint dry.
Step 5: Use a flat piece of metal such as a paint knife to work the 2x4's loose of the wax paper.
Step 6: Remove the tape and free the 2x4's.
Step 7: Use 600 grit sand paper to lightly sand all surfaces of the 2x4's.
Step 8: Use soft tissue, such as Kleenex, to remove any sanding dust.
The photo was taken after Step 5.
Posted in:
boxcar
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
,
paint
,
wood
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I painted the under-carriage the gray-purple color that I mixed Sunday. I decided to paint the wheels. I mixed Holbein acryla gouache paint color yellow and raw sienna to make the yellow marks on the wheels. I also added the couplers. You will notice that I cut off the metal curved pieces that hang down from the couplers. I installed them and trimmed them off rather than not installing them because I wasn't sure that they are useless. I wonder if they help hold the coupler together somehow. I think the wheels hub height will work perfectly, but before I glue the wheels on, I need to add those flange pieces like the cement silo car had. I painted some Bristol board pieces to use for them, but I want them to dry overnight under the weight of some books before I cut and glue them to ensure that they are flat.
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boxcar
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bristol board
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
,
paint
*
I mixed a large batch of pink/red paint for the boxcar. It came out close. Since I mixed a big batch, I may use it anyway. It's so hard to decide if the color matches - photos and printers all give different shades of a color. And my test paint strip looks lighter or darker depending on the light and the angle. The color I mixed is Holbein acryla-gouache titanium white, jet black, crimson, burnt umber, and Naples yellow. I plan to mix some a dirt color for it that is just a little browner and darker. Also need a dark color for the two dark siding boards. [...]
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boxcar
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gb 5079
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güterwagen
,
paint
*
The blue pipes are now glued and painted. They need a little touch-up paint, and they will be done. I used the contact cement to glue the flanges in place. The big advantage of using the contact cement is that it makes a stretchy bond, which allowed me to position the flanges, then tweak them a few minutes later, which is not possible when gluing with the carpenter's wood glue or the Liquitex matte medium. It is hard to mark where things go when using brass rods, so this way I could get the flange to stay put, position the pipes into place and see how much to tweak the flanges to get them to line up. I used the Liquitex matte medium to glue where the glue would show because it dries to nearly invisible - so I used it to glue the ends of the pipes to the deck, and to strengthen the top joint. The top joint has contact cement inside it. I had to use a super skinny brass rod to get the glue inside the joint. It's quite an achievement, I suppose, when the wooden glue sticks that seem quite small, are too big for the gluing task! [...]
Posted in:
cement silo car
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glue
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metal
,
paint
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pipes
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styrene
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uce 8014
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zementsilowagen
*
I added a few piece to the top of the dome - I think it has a hatch and can be opened (in reality). I also finished gluing and painting the ladder - you can see it in the photo - I also bent it to fit on the silo. It seems to be somewhat sturdy - I had no trouble handling it to paint it. I'm sure it could be pulled apart easily, but I just need it to stay together under nearly no-stress conditions. So that appears to be good. I also started the platform that goes on top of the dome, where the ladder comes up at. And the C-shaped pieces are to be trimmed and used to support/attach the ladder and the platform. [...]
Posted in:
cement silo car
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glue
,
ladder
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paint
,
uce 8014
,
wood
,
zementsilowagen
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I started my first attempt at making the ladder this morning. I have taped a piece of clear styrene to the drawing, then taped the vertical pieces of the ladder to the styrene. The styrene gives some structural support to the ladder during construction, and since it is clear, I can still use the drawing a guide for making the ladder. I plan to cut the vertical ladder pieces to free the ladder after construction rather than untape it to reduce the stress applied to the ladder. The wax paper ti there to prevent the glue from gluing to the styrene - I can wiggle the wax paper and prevent adhesion to it. [...]
Posted in:
cement silo car
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glue
,
ladder
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
zementsilowagen
*
I installed the front steps today. I've also installed part of the decking. I need to finish assembling the silo before I can install all of the decking. The pieces next to the silo will need to be cut to fit. I wanted to get some decking on so that I can install the front railings.
The front steps are made using flat brass strips that have been bent, then painted with the undercarriage gray. The brass is stuck into holes drilled into the underside of the carriage, then glued in place with wood carpenter's glue. The flat part of the step, is the same as the decking. That and the decking are basswood 2 x 8's that have been painted with very watered down Holbein acryla-gouache jet black paint. The idea being to give the impression of old unpainted wood decking. [...]
Posted in:
cement silo car
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metal
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
wood
,
zementsilowagen
*
After a few more practice attempts, I finally painted the cement silo. I painted two of them because one goes on half the silo, thus I need two. The "seams" sill be at the front and rear; I'm hoping that after I glue the painted pieces on, that touch-up paint over the seam will hide it. I did the previous cement silo this way, and the seams didn't show (and I didn't even paint them over). The silo sides are Bristol board painted with a base coat of the just slightly purple-ish white. Then the dirt was added in layers of various shades of white, tan, brown, and the undercarriage gray. The two darkest dirt colors seem a little harsh. [...]
Posted in:
bristol board
,
cement silo car
,
dirt
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
zementsilowagen
*
I added the two underside pieces, which you can barely see in the photo. I also added the pieces on the sides that I had started a long time ago. I have no idea what to call them, but they are just along the side edges before the wheels. They are Bristol board with the gray paint. I repainted them after gluing them on with the wood carpenter's glue, and I used the paint knife to ensure a smooth metal-like paint finish. And again, you can see the metal struts that I had put on last night. [...]
Posted in:
bristol board
,
cement silo car
,
dirt
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
undercarriage
,
zementsilowagen
*
Still using the pink-ish white rejects as a base, I tried mixing a little water into the silo dirt colors and applying them using the same fan brush. And what a difference! The added water made the paint apply the way I want, but the water brightened up the colors quite a bit. Well, it brightened up the darker colors, but the off-white is just about invisible. I like the brighter colors a little - but it is too much. I also think I need to get a smaller fan brush...I guess I'll be stopping at Blick Art supply store on my lunch break tomorrow. I didn't mix very much of the silo dirt colors, so mixing more won't be too wasteful of paint. [...]
Posted in:
cement silo car
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
zementsilowagen
*
I spent a little time playing with painting the dirt onto the silo. This is one of the too pink versions of the silo white paint. I figure I might as well practice on the rejects! I tried using a fan brush, which I had not used before. I bought it on a whim (and on sale) a while ago, but had not really used it (other than to test it out once). The brush did a nice job of streaking the paint onto the surface, but it came out with a scumbled effect. I will try this again, but water down the dirt paint a little and see how that looks.
Posted in:
cement silo car
,
paint
,
uce 8014
,
zementsilowagen